Impact of ferulic acid and resveratrol on the effectiveness and safety of sunscreen

Abstract The combination of avobenzone (AVO) and octyl ρ-methoxycinnamate (OMC) is widely used to ensure broad-spectrum photo-protection because they absorb UVA and UVB, respectively. However, they are thermally and photo unstable because they degrade and undergo photo- tautomerization and trans-cis isomerization, thus reducing their photo-protection efficacy during UV exposure. This study aimed to evaluate the potential use of the antioxidants ferulic acid and resveratrol as stabilizing substances in AVO and OMC mixtures in solution or emulsion. The effects of both antioxidants on the thermal/photo-stability and suppression of the filter singlet state, besides skin permeation, were evaluated. Both antioxidants contributed to preserving OMC and AVO during the thermal stability test, which relates to the maintenance of photo-protection even after storing the formulations at high temperatures. Nevertheless, although resveratrol retained part of the OMC trans isomer and suppressed the AVO singlet state when exposed to UV, no contribution to photo-protection stability was observed, contrary to expectations. Regarding the permeation assay, the addition of both antioxidants was accompanied by a reduction of AVO permeation, while resveratrol increased OMC permeation. Thus, the chemical and physicochemical properties of these antioxidants impacted their efficacy and safety profiles; therefore, further studies are required to establish the real cost-benefit ratio for their use in sunscreens.

RP-HPLC simultaneous quantification of rutin, avobenzone, and octyl methoxycinnamate in the presence of hydroxypropyl β-cyclodextrin (HPβCD) and sulfobutyl ether β-cyclodextrin (SBEβCD)

Abstract Development and validation of a simple and fast method of high-performance liquid chromatography with diode array detection (HPLC-DAD) for the simultaneously analysis of rutin, avobenzone, and octyl p-methoxycinnamate is presented. These substances were separated using a Kromasil C18 (250×4.6 mm, 5 μm) column, methanol: water (88:12 v/v) as the mobile phase, and a flow rate of 0.8 mL min−1. The experiment was performed at room temperature and elution was under isocratic conditions. Quantification was performed by external calibration at the wavelength of 325 nm. The validated parameters included linearity, selectivity, precision (repeatability), intermediate precision, accuracy, limit of detection, limit of quantification and robustness. The results of validation were statistically treated using the Action Stat version 3.5.152.34. The selectivity was also evaluated in the presence of two cyclodextrins (2-hydroxypropyl-β-cyclodextrin and β-cyclodextrin sulfobutyl ether sodium). The absence of parallelism between the curves of octyl p-methoxycinnamate in the absence and presence of the β-cyclodextrin sulfobutyl ether sodium in the mobile phase revealed interference from this matrix, thereby indicating the necessity of validating the method in the presence of this, and other matrices. The proposed method was selective, linear, precise, accurate, and robust for the simultaneous determination of rutin, avobenzone, and octyl p-methoxycinnamate.

Characterization and identification of ascorbyl methylsilanol pectinate for cosmetic formulations application

The ascorbyl methylsilanol pectinate (AMP) presents the same functional properties of ascorbic acid (AA). Besides antioxidant and depigmentant activity, the AMP presents silanol in its chemical structure. The aim of this work was to characterize and indentify the AMP alone and in cosmetic formulations. The following techniques were employed: Fourier Transform Infrared Spectrophotometry, particle size distributions, in vitro antioxidant activity with 2.2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) and Oxigen Radical Absorbance Capacity Assay and High Performace Liquid Chromatography (HPLC) (developed and validated method) for the active ingredient; Microscopy, HPLC and Normal Stability Assay (NSA) for the emulsions. Particle size distributions results showed that the average size of AMP was 1.0 µm and polydispersity index was 0.1. In DPPH assay AA and AMP were statistically the same. The value of ORAC obtained for AMP was 0.74 and for AA in the literature was 0.95. In the NSA the formulations were stable in conditions of 5.0 and 45.0 ± 2.0 ºC for 90 days. Adequate stability at ambient temperature out of reach of light was also observed. Thus, this works presented an acceptable method for quantification of AMP alone and in cosmetic formulations. AMP was an adequate choice for the incorporation in emulsions with antioxidant efficacy.

Nanoemulsion containing caffeine for cellulite treatment: characterization and in vitro evaluation

The Ginoide Hydrolipodystrophy (GHLD), commonly known as cellulite, occurs in 80-90% of the female population after the puberty period and comes from a metabolic modification in the cutaneous adipose tissue. Caffeine has been used in topical formulations due to its lipolytic action. We studied a nanoemulsion (F3) containing caffeine with two surfactants (oleth-3 and oleth-20) by emulsification method by phase inversion temperature inversion (PIT). The polydispersion indices (PDI) showed the reduced deviation of 0.1. The mean droplet size was ~ 40 nm. The evaluated constant of Ostwald, in the refrigerator condition was the most favorable during the stability test. In the In Raman spectroscopy assay, the caffeine bands found in F3 were compatible with those found in the caffeine solution (1337, 652.5 and 558.2 cm-1). There was no interaction of caffeine anhydrous with other ingredients in nanoemulsion. In the in vitro safety assay the result of 1.4 ranked the F3 as slightly irritating. In the natural membrane, cutaneous permeation test (human skin) permeate concentrations did not exceed the saturation concentration of the PBS buffer (48.96 µg/3 mL). The caffeine solution and F3 permeated statistically equal, but the nanoemulsion visually and sensorially improved the caffeine precipitation.

Influence of different cosmetic vehicles in mechanical and physical properties of hair treated with oxidative hair dyes

ABSTRACT Hair care products play a significant role in the cosmetic market and aim at improving hair brightness, breakage resistance, and color change. In this study, we analyzed the possibility of the formulation of oxidative dyes in different vehicles impacting the hair's both mechanical and physical properties. Light brown and light blond dyes were prepared using eight different vehicles. Among these, four vehicles were emulsifying agents and four gelling agents. Each formulation was applied to two types of virgin Caucasian hair (light blond and dark brown). Physical, chemical, and organoleptic properties of each formulation were assessed, as well as changes in hair parameters after oxidative dyeing, such as staining intensity, brightness, and breaking strength. The parameters of color and brightness differed in some formulations, but the hair type also responded differently. Brightness parameter was increased in dark brown hair colored with both dyes, whereas light blond hair showed the opposite result. Regarding the breaking strength, there were no significant differences between the two kinds of tresses. Cosmetic formulations should adjust the consumer desired effects (e.g. color change) in order to present minimal drawbacks (e.g. decrease of hair brightness and strength). Thus, the study of different vehicles is important when establishing the best oxidative dye formulation.

Active ingredients, mechanisms of action and efficacy tests of antipollution cosmetic and personal care products

Urban population around the globe is direct exposed to the pollution caused by several sources (vehicles, industries, smokes etc.) and primary pollutants are divided in particulate matter and toxic gases. Current researches in populous countries indicated that exposure to pollution could affect sebum composition, stratum corneum quality and signs of skin aging. Hair and scalp are also affected by the excessive exposure to pollutants, resulting in a dull, dry and lifeless appearance. Cosmetics have been evolved conceptual and scientifically to achieve substantial effectiveness against pollution damaging on the cutaneous tissue, involving the development of innovative multipurpose active ingredients and efficacy tests, skilled to prove the protection and benefits of such personal care products. In this review, we highlighted the skin and hair/scalp damages provoked by the main environmental pollutants and the active substances used in antipollution cosmetics/personal care products with the respective mechanisms of action. Likewise, in vitro and in vivo efficacy tests were discussed concerning the antipollution claim substantiating

Hydrolyzed collagen interferes with in vitro photoprotective effectiveness of sunscreens

ABSTRACT The chronological skin aging is a progressive and natural process with genetic and physiological changes. However, ultraviolet (UV) radiation may accelerate the oxidative stress, generating carcinogenesis and photoaging. Natural compounds and their applications are considered a trend in the cosmetic market. The protein-based film-forming compounds play an important role, once it collaborates for the better distribution of sunscreens on the skin. Here we investigated the in vitro photoprotective effectiveness of sunscreens containing the hydrolyzed collagen associated with UVA, UVB and/or inorganic filters. Sunscreens were developed with octocrylene (7.5%), butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (avobenzone) (3.0%) and/or titanium dioxide (5.0%), associated or not with the hydrolyzed collagen (3.0%). In vitro photoprotective effectiveness was determined in a Labsphere(r) UV2000S by the establishment of the sun protection factor (SPF) and critical wavelength (nm) values. Physicochemical and organoleptic characteristics were also assayed. The hydrolyzed collagen subjectively improved the formulation sensory characteristics. However, this bioactive compound led to a decrease of the SPF values of the photoprotective formulations containing octocrylene alone and octocrylene + butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane + TiO2. This inadequate interaction may be considered during the development of new sunscreens intended to contain protein-based components.

Gelatin-based microspheres crosslinked with glutaraldehyde and rutin oriented to cosmetics

ABSTRACT Glutaraldehyde (GTA) has been extensively used as a gelatin crosslinking agent, however, new natural ones have been suggested as more biocompatible. Polyphenols are possible candidates and the flavonols, such as rutin (RUT), also exhibit potential synergism with sunscreens and antioxidant agents used in cosmetics. In this work, gelatin microspheres (M0) were obtained and crosslinked with GTA 10 mM (MG) or RUT 10 mM (MR), dissolved in acetone:NaOH 0,01M (70:30 v/v). MG exhibited crosslinking extent of 54.4%. Gelatin, M0, MG and MR did not elicit any signs of skin damage, regarding the formation of erythema, the barrier function disruption and negative interference in the stratum corneum hydration. Oily dispersions containing M0, MG or MR, isolated or combined with benzophenone-3 or octyl methoxycinnamate, suggested that the microspheres, at a 5.0% w/w, had no additional chemical or physical photoprotective effect in vitro. Crosslinking with RUT had occurred, but in a lower degree than GTA. Microspheres had not improved sun protection parameters, although, non-treated gelatin interfered positively with the SPF for both UV filters. The in vivo studies demonstrated that these materials had very good skin compatibility.

Particle size and morphological characterization of cosmetic emulsified systems by Optical Coherence Tomography (OCT)

ABSTRACT The physicochemical attributes of emulsified systems are influenced by the characteristics of their internal phase droplets (concentration, size and morphology), which can be modified not only by the formulation components, but also by the analytical methodology employed. Thus, the aim of this work involved the physicochemical characterization of cosmetic emulsions obtained from different surfactants, as well as the introduction of the optical coherence tomography (OCT) as the analytical technique employed for the morphological characterization and particle size determination of the formulations. Three emulsions were prepared, differing at the type and concentration of the surfactant used, and their droplet sizes were evaluated through optical microscopy, laser diffraction and OCT. The microscopic analysis and the laser diffraction techniques provided an average particle size minor than 6.0 µm, not detected by the OCT technique, which could identify only bigger particles of the emulsified systems' internal phase. The results testify that OCT was suitable for the morphological characterization of cosmetic emulsions; however, the technique needs to be improved to ensure a better sensitivity in the analysis of smaller particles.

RESUMO Os atributos físico-químicos de sistemas emulsionados são influenciados pelas características de suas gotículas de fase interna (concentração, tamanho e morfologia), as quais podem ser modificadas não apenas pelos componentes da formulação, mas também pela metodologia analítica empregada. Desta forma, o objetivo deste trabalho envolveu a caracterização físico-química de emulsões cosméticas obtidas a partir de diferentes tensoativos, bem como a introdução da tomografia de coerência óptica (OCT) como a técnica analítica utilizada para a caracterização morfológica e determinação do tamanho de partícula das formulações. Três emulsões foram preparadas, diferindo no tipo e concentração do tensoativo empregado, e seus tamanhos de gotícula foram avaliados por meio das técnicas de microscopia óptica, difração a laser e OCT. As técnicas de microscopia óptica e difração a laser forneceram tamanhos de partícula médios menores de 6.0 µm, não detectados pela técnica de OCT, que permitiu apenas a identificação de partículas maiores pertencentes à fase interna dos sistemas emulsionados. Os resultados reforçam a introdução da OCT como metodologia promissora para a caracterização morfológica de emulsões cosméticas; no entanto, a técnica requer aprimoramento para garantir maior sensibilidade na análise de partículas de menor tamanho.

Avaliação do fator de proteção solar (FPS) in vitro e perfil reológico de fotoprotetores comerciais infantis / Assessment of in vitro Sun Protection Factor (SPF) and rheological profile of commercial infant sunscreens

A pesquisa tem como objetivo a aplicação da transmitância espectral utilizando uma esfera de integração para estimar o Fator de Proteção Solar (FPS) de fotoprotetores comerciais para o uso infantil. Fotoprotetores com FPS 30 (A, B e C), disponíveis comercialmente, foram selecionados para avaliação conforme as seguintes metodologias: valor de pH, perfil reológico, e valor de FPS in vitro por espectroscopia. As amostras A, B e C apresentaram, respectivamente, os seguintes valores de pH: 7.8, 7.4 e 7.0. O perfil reológico identificou os sistemas como semissólidos pseudoplásticos não-Newtonianos, com área de histerese. O teste-T (p < 0.05) foi utilizado para confrontar o FPS alegado (FPS = 30) com o estimado por espectroscopia. Estudos in vitro foram considerados de grande importância para a área cosmética, podendo corroborar, previamente, a realização dos estudos de eficácia in vivo. De acordo com os resultados, as amostras A, B e C apresentaram valores de FPS sem diferença estatisticamente significativa, quando comparados àqueles citados nos rótulos. A transmitância espectral utilizando esfera de integração provou ser uma metodologia conveniente, rápida e reprodutível para a avaliação estimada do FPS.

This research focused on the measurement of spectral transmittance using an integrating sphere to estimate the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) of commercial sunscreens oriented for child use. Commercially available SPF 30 sunscreens (A, B and C) were selected and assessed by the following methodology: pH measurement; rheological profile analysis; and in vitro SPF estimation by spectroscopy. Samples A, B and C exhibited, respectively, pH values of 7.8, 7.4 and 7.0. The rheological profile identified the systems as pseudoplastic non-Newtonian semisolids with hysteresis loops. The t-test (p < 0.05) was used to confront the claimed SPF (SPF = 30) with that estimated by spectroscopy. In vitro tests are considered of utmost importance in the cosmetic , since their results may be used to validate submission to subsequent in vivo efficacy experiments. According to our results, sunscreens A, B and C generated SPF values without any significant difference from those claimed on the commercial sunscreen labels. The measurement of spectral transmittance with an integrating sphere proved to be a convenient, fast and reproducible method for SPF estimation.

Influence of particle size on appearance and in vitro efficacy of sunscreens

Nanotechnology applies to diverse sectors of science. In cosmetic area, investments have strengthened the idea that nanoproducts provide innumerable benefits to consumers. Extreme exposition to solar light can cause undesirable effects, thus, adding UV filters in cosmetic products are often used as prevention. Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate and benzophenone-3 are UV filters widely used in sunscreen formulations, this UV filters absorb UVB and UVA radiation, respectively. In this study, sunscreen formulations were developed as nano and macroemulsion, but composed by the same raw material. Nanoemulsion was obtained by phase inversion temperature method (PIT). Physical and functional properties were evaluated by visual analysis, particle size distribution and by diffuse reflectance spectrophotometry. Achieved nanoemulsion showed bluish brightness aspect, less apparent consistency than macroemulsion, stability longer than 48 hours (22.0 ± 2.0 °C) and bimodal particle size distribution with average (mean) sizes around 10 nm (61%) and 4.5 µm (39%). Macroemulsion showed milky aspect, higher consistency than nanoemulsion, instability after 48 hours (22.0 ± 2.0 °C) and bimodal particle size distribution with average (mean) size around 202 nm (9%) and 10.4 µm (91%). Effectiveness profile of sunscreen formulations remained apparently similar, based on achieved results of in vitro SPF, UVA/UVB ratio and critical wavelength assays.

A nanotecnologia se aplica a diversos setores da ciência. Na área de cosméticos, os investimentos têm reforçado a idéia de que nanoprodutos oferecem inúmeros benefícios para os consumidores. A exposição excessiva à luz solar pode causar efeitos indesejáveis, logo, a adição de filtros UV em produtos cosméticos é frequentemente usada como prevenção. O p-metoxicinamato de octila e a benzofenona-3 são filtros UV amplamente utilizados em formulações de protecção solar, que absorvem radiações UVB e UVA, respectivamente. Neste estudo, desenvolveram-se formulações de protetores solares na forma de nano e macroemulsão, mas compostos pelas mesmas matérias-primas. A nanoemulsão foi obtida pelo método da temperatura de inversão de fases (PIT). As propriedades físicas e funcionais foram avaliadas por análise visual, distribuição de tamanho de partículas e por espectrofotometria de reflectância difusa. A nanoemulsão obtida apresentou brilho azulado, menor consistência aparente quando comparada `a macroemulsão, estabilidade superior a 48 horas (22,0 ± 2,0 ° C) e distribuição de tamanhos de partícula bimodal, com média (média) de tamanhos ao redor de 10 nm (61%) e 4,5 µm (39%) . A macroemulsão apresentou aspecto leitoso, maior consistência aaprente do que nanoemulsão, instabilidade após 48 horas (22,0 ± 2,0 ºC) e distribuição de tamanhos de partícula bimodal, com média (média) de tamanhos ao redor de 202 nm (9%) e 10,4 µm (91%). O perfil de eficácia das formulações fotoprotetoras permaneceu aparentemente similar, com base em resultados obtidos por ensaios de FPS in vitro, relação UVA/UVB e comprimento de onda crítico.

Stability evaluation of organic Lip Balm

Rising global demand for natural products whose production is harmless to the environment has stimulated the development of natural cosmetics and, within this category, organics (95% organic raw materials). The image of environmentally friendly production is one of the strongest attractions of organic products. Lip balm is a cosmetic product similar to lipstick whose purpose is to prevent lip dryness and protect against adverse environmental factors. The product's characteristics are: resistance to temperature variations, pleasant flavor, innocuousness, smoothness during application, adherence and easy intentional removal. This work involved the development of a lip balm formulated with certified organic raw materials and the execution of stability tests: fusion point determination, evaluation of organoleptic characteristics (color, odor and appearance) and functionality evaluation (spreadability test). The formulation selected after the Preliminary Stability Test was submitted to the Normal Stability Test under the following storage conditions (temperature): Room Temperature (22.0 ± 3.0 ºC), Oven (40.0 ± 2.0 ºC) and Refrigerator (5.0 ± 1.0 ºC), for 90 days. Under the Refrigerator and Room Temperature conditions, spreadability proved adequate, but the surface presented white spots, characterizing the fat bloom, a phenomenon involving the recrystallization of cocoa butter. Storage at 40.0 ± 2.0 ºC (Oven) caused loss of functionality according to the spreadability test, in addition to changes in color, although the aspect was uniform since the fat bloom was not observed (white spots on the surface). The odor remained stable under all conditions as did the melting point, which had a mean of 72.9 ± 1.7 ºC throughout the course of stability testing (90 days).

O aumento da demanda global por produtos naturais, cuja produção não envolva nenhum dano ao meio ambiente, tem estimulado o desenvolvimento de cosméticos naturais e, dentro desta categoria, dos produtos orgânicos (que contêm 95% de matérias-primas orgânicas). O protetor labial é um produto cosmético semelhante ao batom que tem a finalidade de prevenir o ressecamento dos lábios, mantendo a hidratação, e protegê-los contra fatores ambientais adversos. Este trabalho envolveu o desenvolvimento de um protetor labial formulado com matérias-primas orgânicas e avaliação dos parâmetros de estabilidade, como ponto de fusão, características organolépticas e funcionalidade (teste de espalhabilidade). A formulação selecionada após o Estudo de Estabilidade Preliminar foi submetida à Avaliação Normal de Estabilidade, nas seguintes condições de armazenamento (temperatura): Ambiente (22,0 ± 3,0 ºC), Estufa (40,0 ± 2,0 ºC) e Geladeira (5,0 ± 1,0 ºC), por 90 dias. Nas condições de armazenamento em geladeira ou ambiente, a espalhabilidade foi adequada, mas a superfície apresentou pontos esbranquiçados, caracterizando o fenômeno chamado fat bloom, que está relacionado à recristalização da manteiga de cacau. O armazenamento à temperatura elevada (40,0 ± 2,0 ºC) provocou perda de funcionalidade, de acordo com o teste de espalhabilidade, e mudança de cor, apesar do aspecto permanecer uniforme, visto que não foi observado o fenômeno fat bloom. O odor manteve-se estável em todas as condições, assim como o ponto de fusão, com valor médio de 72,9 ºC ± 1,7 ºC durante todo o período de avaliação do teste de estabilidade (90 dias).

Desenvolvimento e avaliação de produtos cosméticos para a higiene capilar contendo tensoativos "não-sulfatados" / Development and assessment of hair-cleansing cosmetic formulations containing non-sulfate surfactants

Produtos cosméticos para a higiene capilar promovem a remoção de gordura, suor, poeira, células mortas, micro-organismos e resíduos de outros cosméticos do couro cabeludo e do cabelo. Com esta finalidade, foi proposto o desenvolvimento e avaliação da estabilidade de formulações contendo tensoativos primários não sulfatados associados separadamente com diferentes agentes de consistência (Myrj® 6000, NovethixTM L-10 e Carbopol® Ultrez 20). Dentre os seis tensoativos "não sulfatados" avaliados, dois foram selecionados (Plantapon® LGC Sorb e Sensactive® C30) conforme critérios de avaliação da viscosidade e da formação de espuma. Seis formulações foram desenvolvidas, com combinações distintas entre os tensoativos selecionados e os diferentes agentes de consistência (sem a adição intencional de cloreto de sódio), com posterior estudo de estabilidade em variadas condições de armazenamento. Durante os estudos de estabilidade acelerada, as formulações contendo os agentes de consistência Myrj® 6000 ou NovethixTM L-10 não apresentaram estabilidade adequada. Ao final do estudo de estabilidade normal, as formulações remanescentes, contendo Carbopol® Ultrez 20, mantiveram as características organolépticas e desempenho adequado quanto à viscosidade, comprovando a eficiência deste polímero, mesmo em formulações com grandes quantidades de tensoativos "não sulfatados" e eletrólitos.

Cosmetic products for hair cleansing promote the removal of grease, sweat, dirt, dead cells, microorganisms and residues of other cosmetics from the skin, scalp and hair. In this context, it was decided to develop and assess the stability of formulations containing various non-sulfate primary surfactants, combined separately with three different consistency agents (Myrj® 6000, NovethixTM L-10 and Carbopol® Ultrez 20). Among the six non-sulfate surfactants tested, two were selected (Plantapon® LGC Sorb and Sensactive® C30) by viscosity and foam formation criteria. Thus, 6 formulations were developed, with distinct combinations of the 2 selected surfactants and 3 consistency agents (without the intentional addition of sodium chloride), and subsequently their stability under various storage conditions was studied. In the short-term stability study, formulations containing the consistency agents Myrj® 6000 or NovethixTM L-10 did not show adequate stability. At the end of the full-length stability study, the remaining formulations, containing Carbopol® Ultrez 20, maintained their organoleptic characteristics and good viscosity, proving the efficiency of this polymer, even in formulations with large amounts of non-sulfate surfactants and electrolytes.

Proteção à radiação ultravioleta: recursos disponíveis na atualidade em fotoproteção / Ultraviolet radiation protection: current available resources in photoprotection

A radiação ultravioleta pode provocar danos ao DNA, imunossupressão, alterações químicas e histológicas na epiderme, envelhecimento precoce, cataratas e carcinogênese, dentre outras deteriorações. A fotoproteção previne estes e outros efeitos danosos da radiação ultravioleta. Protetores solares, vestimentas, acessórios adequados e exposição segura ao sol são ferramentas essenciais da fotoproteção. Neste artigo, são apresentadas e discutidas as principais formas de fotoproteção, incluindo os protetores solares com filtros inorgânicos e orgânicos, a avaliação da eficácia dos mesmos e atualizações envolvendo o tema.

Ultraviolet radiation can damage the DNA, cause immunosuppression, chemical and histological alterations in the epidermis, early photoaging, cataracts and carcinogenesis, among others. Photoprotection prevents these and other harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation. Sunscreens, protective clothing, proper accessories and safe sun exposure are essential photoprotection tools. The main forms of photoprotection are presented and discussed in this article, including sunscreens containing organic and inorganic filters, the assessment of their efficacy and current developments on the topic.

Hidrolipodistrofia ginoide: aspectos gerais e metodologias de avaliação da eficácia: [revisão] / Gynoid lipodystrophy: general aspects and methodologies for efficacy evaluation: [review]

A hidrolipodistrofia ginoide (HLDG), popularmente conhecida como celulite, está presente em grande parte da população feminina. Trata-se de umaalteração do relevo cutâneo, envolvendo modificações morfológicas, histoquímicas, bioquímicas e ultraestruturais nos adipócitos, além de alterações na derme e na microcirculação. Existem inúmeras formas de se tratar essa condição, sendo a mais utilizada e de fácil acesso o uso de produtos tópicos contendo princípios ativos com ação vasoprotetora, anti-inflamatória, estimuladores da microcirculação periférica e agentes lipolíticos. Para verificar a eficácia destas formulações, existem metodologias de avaliação envolvendo avaliações instrumentais e clínicas da melhoria do aspecto da celulite. Este artigo teve por objetivo revisar as formas existentes de se avaliar a ação de produtos que atuam na HLDG, considerando os diversos mecanismos de ação, além de revisar aspectos gerais referentes a esta condição.

Gynoid lipodystrophy (HLDG), popularly known as cellulite, is present in a great part of the female population. It is an alteration of the cutaneousrelief involving morphological, histochemical, biochemical and ultrastructural modifications in the adipocytes and also alterations in the dermis andmicrocirculation. There are countless ways of treating this condition, being topic products containing active principles with vessel protective, antiinflammatory actions, peripheral microcirculation stimulators and lipolytic agents the most used and of easiest access. In order to verify the efficacyof these formulations, there are evaluation methodologies involving instrumental and clinical evaluations of the improvement of the aspect of cellulite. Therefore, this article aimed at reviewing the existent ways of evaluating the efficacy of products against gynoid lipodystrophy, taking the different mechanisms of action into account and also at reviewing general aspects concerning this condition.

Patenting in the cosmetic sector: study of the use of herbal extracts

The aim of this work was to evaluate the innovative performance of herbal extracts applied in cosmetics area, based on information collected from Brazilian, American and European patent banks. Analysis were carried out to evaluate the number of patent deposits from each database, the patent applicants profiles, the companies with most patent applications, and also the main uses of herbal extracts in cosmetics. Based on the results achieved, the number of patents filed at the Brazilian patent bank is much lower than that observed in American and European patent banks. Although the number of patents is limited, the analysis indicated a range of cosmetic applications that acts according to the international market trend, represented by a large number of multifunctional products.

O objetivo deste trabalho foi avaliar o cenário da inovação referente a extratos vegetais aplicados no setor de cosméticos, com base em informações extraídas dos bancos de patentes brasileiro, americano e europeu. Foram realizadas análises para avaliar o número de depósitos de patentes de cada banco de dados, o perfil dos depositantes, as empresas com maior número de registros de patentes, e também as principais aplicações dos extratos vegetais descritos nos documentos. Com base nos resultados obtidos, o número de patentes depositadas no banco de patentes brasileiro é muito inferior ao observado nos bancos de patentes americano e europeu. No entanto, embora o número de patentes seja limitado, as análises indicaram uma variedade de aplicações cosméticas que agem de acordo com a tendência do mercado internacional, representada por um número elevado de produtos multifuncionais.

Comparative study of the stability of free and modified papain incorporated in topical formulations

Papain is an enzyme used in topical formulations as a proteolytic debriding agent for the treatment of open, extensive wounds and burnings. It is also employed as an enhancer for cutaneous permeation of active compounds, chemical peeling and as a progressive depilatory agent. The stability of formulations containing enzymes is not easy. In this research, papain was modified with polyethylene glycol in order to increase the stability of the formulations. The comparative Normal Stability Testing of the topical formulations containing unmodified and modified papain showed that the modified variety presented with a differentiated profile under the adopted temperature conditions (5.0 ± 1.0 °C; 22.0 ± 2.0 °C; 40.0 ± 2.0 °C). The most suitable condition for non-modified papain were 5.0 ± 1.0 °C and, for modified papain, they were 22.0 ± 2.0 °C. These results confirmed the higher stability of modified papain compared to free papain, as well as its potential to be applied in topical formulations.

A papaína é uma enzima utilizada em formulações tópicas como agente proteolítico debridante no tratamento de lesões abertas de grande extensão e queimaduras. É, também, empregada na pele íntegra como agente promotor da permeação cutânea de princípios ativos, peeling químico e como agente depilatório progressivo. A estabilidade de formulações contendo enzimas não é facilmente alcançada. No presente trabalho realizou-se a modificação da enzima com polietilenoglicol, visando maior estabilidade das formulações. A realização do Teste Estabilidade Normal comparativo entre as formulações contendo as formas da enzima não modificada e modificada demonstrou que a última apresentou um perfil de estabilidade diferenciado, nas diferentes condições (5,0 ± 1,0 °C; 22,0 ± 2,0 °C; 40,0 ± 2,0 °C). A condição de 5,0 ± 1,0 °C foi a mais adequada para a formulação contendo papaína não modificada enquanto a 22,0 ± 2,0 °C foi indicada para aquela contendo a forma modificada. Estes resultados confirmaram o aumento da estabilidade da papaína modificada comparada com a livre e seu potencial de aplicação em formulações de uso tópico.

Spectroscopic and thermal characterization of alternative model biomembranes from shed skins of Bothrops jararaca and Spilotis pullatus / Caracterização espectroscópica e térmica de biomembranas modelo alternativo de peles galpão de Bothrops jararaca e Spilotis pullatus

Recently, there has been an interest in the use of shed snake skin as alternative model biomembrane for human stratum corneum. This research work presented as objective the qualitative characterization of alternative model biomembranes from Bothrops jararaca and Spilotis pullatus by FT-Raman, PAS-FTIR and DSC. The employed biophysical techniques permitted the characterization of the biomembranes from shed snake skin of B. jararaca and S. pullatus by the identification of vibrational frequencies and endothermic transitions that are similar to those of the human stratum corneum.

Existe atualmente interesse no uso da muda de pele de cobra como modelos alternativos de biomembranas da pele humana. O presente trabalho apresentou como objetivo a caracterização qualitativa de modelos alternativos de biomembranas provenientes de mudas de pele de cobra da Bothrops jararaca e Spilotis pullatus por espectroscopia Raman (FT-Raman), espectroscopia fotoacústica no infravermelho (PAS-FTIR) e calorimetria exploratória diferencial (DSC). As técnicas biofísicas FT-Raman, PAS-FTIR e DSC permitiram caracterizar qualitativamente os modelos alternativos de biomembranas provenientes das mudas de pele de cobra da B. jararaca e S. pullatus e identificar freqüências vibracionais e transições endotérmicas similares ao estrato córneo humano.

Physical and physicochemical stability evaluation of cosmetic formulations containing soybean extract fermented by Bifidobacterium animalis / Avaliação da estabilidade física e físico-química de formulações cosméticas contendo extrato de soja fermentado por Bifidobacterium animalis

Peel off facial masks, based on polyvinyl alcohol (PVA), are formulations that, after application and drying, form an occlusive film over the face. After removing, they provide cleanness, tensor and moisturizing effects, removing dead cells, residues and other materials deposited on the stratum corneous. The soybean extract fermented by Bifidobacterium animalis has sugars, amino acids, peptides, proteins and free isoflavonoids in high concentrations, when compared to the unfermented extract, providing benefits to the cosmetic formulations like anti-aging effect, moisture, tensor action and emollience. The cosmetic bases of peel off facial masks, added with 5.0 percent w/w of fermented soybean extract, were submitted to Preliminary and Accelerated Stability Studies. Eight (8) preparations were evaluated in several conditions of temperature (-10.0, 5.0, 22.0 and 45.0 ºC) and time (maximum of 15 days), comparing the results with the initial condition (48 h after preparation). The variables observed were: organoleptic characteristics, pH and appearing viscosity value and film drying time. The preparation containing 17.0 percent w/w of PVA and 0.5 percent w/w of guar gum was selected between the eight preparations initially prepared, because it presented the best performance in the stability test, being recommended storage at low temperatures (5.0 ºC).

As máscaras faciais peel off a base de álcool polivinílico (PVA) são formulações que, após a aplicação e secagem, formam um filme oclusivo sobre a face e, após sua remoção, conferem limpeza, ação tensora e hidratação à pele, retirando células mortas do estrato córneo, resíduos e outros materiais depositados. O extrato de soja fermentado por Bifidobacterium animalis possui açúcares, aminoácidos, peptídeos, e alto teor de isoflavonas na forma livre, quando comparado ao leite não fermentado, propiciando benefícios às formulações cosméticas, como ação antienvelhecimento, hidratação, efeito tensor e emoliência. As bases cosméticas de máscaras faciais peel off, acrescidas de extrato de soja fermentado 5,0 por cento p/p, foram submetidas aos ensaios de Estabilidade Preliminar e Acelerada, avaliando-se 8 preparações em diversas condições de temperatura (-10,0; 5,0; 22,0 e 45,0 ºC) e tempo (máximo de 15 dias), em relação à condição inicial (48 h após o preparo). As variáveis observadas envolveram: características organolépticas, valor de pH, viscosidade aparente e tempo de secagem do filme. A preparação contendo 17,0 por cento p/p de PVA e 0,5 por cento p/p de goma guar foi a selecionada dentre as oito preparações elaboradas inicialmente, por ter apresentado melhor desempenho no teste de estabilidade, sendo recomendado o armazenamento em temperatura reduzida (5,0 ºC).

Hair fiber characteristics and methods to evaluate hair physical and mechanical properties / Características da fibra do cabelo e métodos para avaliar o cabelo propriedades físicas e mecânicas

The hair thread is a natural fiber formed by keratin, a protein containing high concentration of sulfur coming from the amino acid cystine. The main physical proprieties of the hair depend mostly on its geometry; the physical and mechanical properties of hair involve characteristics to improve: elasticity, smoothness, volume, shine, and softness due to both the significant adherence of the cuticle scales and the movement control (malleability), as well as the easiness of combing, since they reduce the fibers static electricity. The evaluation of these effects on hair may be carried out by several methods, as: optical and electron microscopy, mechanical resistance measuring, shine evaluation and optical coherence tomography (OCT).

O cabelo é uma fibra natural formada por queratina, uma proteína composta por teor elevado de enxofre proveniente da cistina. As propriedades principais do cabelo dependem de sua geometria, estrutura física. Características físicas e mecânicas das fibras capilares envolvem propriedades que melhoram: elasticidade, maciez, volume, maleabilidade, facilidade para o ato de pentear e brilho. A avaliação de tais propriedades do cabelo pode ser obtida por métodos diversos, como: microscopia óptica e eletrônica, mensuração da resistência mecânica, determinação do brilho e tomografia por coerência óptica (OCT).